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2013 Archived Messages


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MONTHDATEDATEDATEDATEMONTHDATEDATEDATEDATE
January 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-31 February 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-28
March 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-31 April 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-30
May 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-31 June 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-30
July 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-31 August 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-31
September 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-30 October 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-31
November 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-30 December 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-31

July 1—7

From: Horace Hands
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: A few more orchid pics.
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2013 11:15


When I came back from Malvern, and got my plants back on the benches, it seemed that my flowers on display were at something of a low. Very little worth looking at. In fact We have to do without our usual basket of orchids in the hall − its that bad ( many of the ones out are the big Vandas, which are difficult to show to advantage in the size of arrangement I favour for this purpose.
Then I went away on a round Britain tour visiting old friends and relatives, and back last night. When I looked in the greenhouse, there were a few nice things − so we are on the upswing again. So I want to share them.

This one is Bulbo.tingabarinum, from Vietnamn. A NFS seedling a couple of years ago, now first flower spike. That is a 3 inch pot you see.
I am in two minds here ; is this a super little cutie, or a psychedelic nightmare ?

This net one is C.Mini Purple "coerulea' . Pity about that damaged petal. Super perfume of course , all the catts have some, and the minis more than most I think. As yopu see, growing on a nice bit of wood, and just starting to root properly. I hope for much better from this chap next year.

The last of the four I put in to show the complete plant as it looked in mid May when 1 spike was open ; now there are 4, with two more to come. Only a 3inch , maybe even slightly less (2.5 inch (?) net pot. Of course I do know how I grow it , but I wish a few more orchids would show their appreciation like this !

This last one is a puzzle ; it was bought at Malvern, 2 weeks ago although I don't know who from; That label appears to read C.Tian Mu Sasome but there is no such registered name − and I have tried all the obvious things. Rather similar to C.Taiwan Green Diamond, although different petal base colour. If anyone has any inspiration as to what it really is, I should like to know.

Regards to all.

Geoff

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From: Tina Stagg
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Re De.kentrophyllum.
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2013 20:55

Thank you, Max

I think I need to give it more light and possibly it should have a bit more
heat. I'll try the light and see how we go − I don't want to increase the
heat beyond intermediate just to accommodate one small plant when everything
else seems happy.

Also, did somebody mention that his plants looked good after his holiday?
Mine always do. When I go away I have to leave on the shading 'curtains',
leave on the sprays and leave open the vents. Could be a lesson here not to
interfere when orchids are trying to grow!

Tina

Max Redman wrote re: [OrchidTalk] Re De.kentrophyllum.

Hello Tina,
Den.kentrophyllum according to 'Dendrobiums and their relatives' by Bill
Lavarack, Wayne Harris and Geoff Stocker lists Dendrobium kentrophyllum as
coming fromThailand,Malaysia,Sumatra and Borneo.
It grows at altitudes of 600 to 1500 m in sunny positions in rainforests.
Year round rainfall and high humidity.Flowering season is late summer and
autumn.
More suited to slab culture but may be grown in a hanging pot with well
drained mix. Intermediate to warm conditions with regular watering all year
round. Watering may be reduced slightly in winter. Requires bright light.
Hope this helps.
Max.

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From: Peter Fowler
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] A few more orchid pics.
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2013 23:10

Good pictures Geoff. What lens did you use for the Bulbo closeup?
What is the Catasetum like plant. Lovely flowers.
Have some pictures to take of some more of my Disas which are flowering.
Trying to load them up on my new laptop. A Macbook Air, 13" screen. SSD hard
drive; no moving parts. Loads up in less than 10 seconds. Really like a mini
iMac! So I am well Maced now. Takes time to learn, though. Beautifully
designed and well made machines. Very little plastic.
Geoff. How do I take pictures of white flowers ,to show up the contrast and
detail, without looking washed out? Troubled me for years. I am sure you
can help.
Thanks
Peter, Alton.

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From: Andy
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] A few more orchid pics.
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2013 11:20

HI Geoff

I grow B tingabarinum and several closely related ones and I am of the opinion that they are super rather than nightmares! I think this one grows better and looks nicer on a mount. Attached is B hirudinis, a similar species The photo is not great but illustrates the point. It was taken in Sept 2010 and the mount is now well covered.

Here too is B pecten-veneris. I see the plant list says they are the same species. Odd # the flowers of one are about 3 times the size of those of the other!

Andy

Geoff wrote:

I am in two minds here ; is this a super little cutie, or a psychedelic nightmare ?

Geoff

-------------------------------------------------------------

From: Geoff Hands
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] A few more orchid pics.
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2013 16:30

All using my old faithful Nikkor Micro.

Sorry I did not name the six spiker . It is Sievekingia fimbriata. A Stanhopea relative, in fact I have heard it is the genus from which Stanhopea evolved.
Now, I saw this species growing in Monte Verde cloud forest in Costa Rica, but was not able to name it then. Incidentally, it is unusual In having the petals fimbriate − with most such orchids it is the lip. But there is a much finer fringed Sievekingia − I forget the name, and the only nursery I ave found who list it are Ecuagenera, but they say "unavailable" when I order it. I shall have to work on Ivan to get him to divide their mother plant, if they don't have seedlings in the pipeline.

Geoff

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From: Geoff Hands
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] A few more orchid pics.
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2013 16:35

White flowers − the real test of accurate exposure. Using Raw, and then adjusting is one way, or if you have Photoshop, then make a copy layer, merge using the multiply choice, then adjust opacity back until it looks right. You can of course select the background and deal with it separately.
Hope this helps.

Geoff.

Sent from my iPad

On 3 Jul 2013, at 23:13, Peter Fowler wrote:

> Geoff. How do I take pictures of white flowers ,to show up the contrast and detail, without looking washed out? Troubled me for years. I am sure you can help.
> Thanks
> Peter, Alton.

-------------------------------------------------------------

From: Peter Fowler
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] A few more orchid pics.
Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2013 22:00

Thanks for the info Geoff. I will have a go at the layers method.
Thanks
Peter

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From: Geoff Hands
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] A few more orchid pics.
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2013 10:55

This is a coincidence. I have never seen bulbos being grown on wood − cork yes, and other things like epiweb. But only a few days ago I decided to try a few this way, since my cattleyas do so well . I have not done very well with cork bark, except for a few Aerangis, and I don' like Epiweb.
Of course so many bulbos make big mats, and will rapidly outgrow any log I want to suspend above my head − assuming they like it.

Geoff

Sent from my iPad

On 4 Jul 2013, at 11:22, "Andy" wrote:

> HI Geoff
>
> I grow B tingabarinum and several closely related ones and I am of the opinion that they are super rather than nightmares! I think this one grows better and looks nicer on a mount. Attached is B hirudinis, a similar species The photo is not great but illustrates the point. It was taken in Sept 2010 and the mount is now well covered.
>
> Here too is B pecten-veneris. I see the plant list says they are the same species. Odd # the flowers of one are about 3 times the size of those of the other!
>
> Andy

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From: Richard Baxter
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] A few more orchid pics.
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2013 14:25

Seeing that you mention Cattleyas, Geoff, maybe you and others can help me. I have several but great difficulty flowering them. They live in my intermediate greenhouse min 15c and in summer max about 32c with 75-80% summer humidity. They are in the lightest part of the greenhouse. They grow in pots vegetatively like weeds, and sheaths appear but do not develop. They get MSU formula fertiliser at most waterings April − October.
I have heard that one should stop watering when a sheath appears but that does not seem right in summer when I understand they need as much water as they can get.
What is the trick to getting blooms?
Everything else grows and blooms beautifully.
Very frustrating.
Richard

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From: Horace Hands
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Neofinetia colour form
Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2013 20:25


Perhaps Peter can give me the name of this variety ? LIme green petals and sepals, also spur. The planty did have a Hapanese name, but the label is lost.
Flowers a bit smaller than the usual form, but scent/perfume just as nice.

Geoff


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From: Peter Fowler
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Neofinetia colour form
Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2013 18:20


Hi Geoff: Not sure of the name of that Neo. I have a book on Neo varieties
but the names are in Japanese.
Nice plant and interesting colours. I love the perfume from the flowers. I
have 3 in flower at the moment, some flowering for the first time. I will
take some photos.
Peter, Alton.

-------------------------------------------------------------

From: Geoff
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] A few more orchid pics.
Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2013 20:40

I believe that it is light above everything else.
As I have probably already said many times, I have moved (almost) all my cattleyas onto bare wood mounts − pieces of tree branch; No moss, no compost. Wired on. Now most were in very poor shape indeed ( dead roots from too much water, as a result of growing them below my hanging plants which are sprayed most days, and the spray drifts down
They are then ( after being wired oin) hung up in the roof of the greenhouse, above the hanging vandaceous stuff, and also sprayed daily . New roots quickly form. Even on ones which were doubtful ( is it really alive, am I wasting my time ? − less than 10 out of 500 plants have since been thrown away.

But those which were alive, surprise me, by flowering. Plants which have sat on the bench for years with never a flower − bursting into flower. The extra light, I am sure.

It is my opinion that of all the plants I grow, cattleyas need the most light. Vandas come second, but not particularly a close second. This is contrary to received wisdom I think , in UK.

What an endless learning curve is orchid culture !

Try it out Richard − perhaps you don't need to do the bare root and branch bit , just hang them in the roof.

geoff

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From: tony garthwaite
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Shading
Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2013 09:05

Dear All, especially Geoff!

I've just read a piece by Geoff written exactly 4 years ago this weekend
where Geoff is asking about shading for his "Nissan-hut -type" greenhouse.

Geoff, mentions Phormiflex Thermal Screening, from LBS Horticulture and the
Aluminium Shading from Simply Ccontrol.

As Summer seems to have arrived .. at last ... I'm in desperate need of some
heat reduction and wonder what you, Geoff, finally decided upon and if
anyone else has recommendations please!

Tony G.

-------------------------------------------------------------

From: Peter Fowler
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] A few more orchid pics.
Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2013 09:50

Geoff, you are dead right about light. Does anyone remember the late,
great Jack King.
He ,like Geoff, wrote articles for the Orchid Review. But one day in his
greenhouse he said that he could not flower his Odonts. Which he had
many. I looked at them and the leaves were dark green and I immediately
thought the problem was not enough light.
My Odonts had lighter leaves with a touch of red in them and they always
flowered.
I took one plant from Jack's collection and gave it my culture and you
guessed it ,it flowered well with 6 spikes. It was a different clone of
Vuyl. Cambria, the orange one.

My variegated Neos are flowering for the first time. Only one small spike
each one. Not opened yet. They need repotting in my special pots that I
had made for them. I feel guilty that I have left it so long. Some of them
have the ends of the leaves chewed a bit by our 2 new cats!
Come on Andy!!
Peter, Alton.

On 06/07/2013 20:43, "Geoff" wrote:

>I believe that it is light above everything else.
>As I have probably already said many times, I have moved (almost) all my
>cattleyas onto bare wood mounts − pieces of tree branch; No moss, no
>compost. Wired on. Now most were in very poor shape indeed ( dead roots
>from too much water, as a result of growing them below my hanging plants
>which are sprayed most days, and the spray drifts downŠ
>They are then ( after being wired oin) hung up in the roof of the
>greenhouse, above the hanging vandaceous stuff, and also sprayed daily .
>New roots quickly form. Even on ones which were doubtful ( is it really
>alive, am I wasting my time ? − less than 10 out of 500 plants have since
>been thrown away.
>
>But those which were alive, surprise me, by flowering. Plants which have
>sat on the bench for years with never a flower − bursting into flower.
>The extra light, I am sure.
>
>It is my opinion that of all the plants I grow, cattleyas need the most
>light. Vandas come second, but not particularly a close second. This is
>contrary to received wisdom I think , in UK.
>
>What an endless learning curve is orchid culture !
>
>Try it out Richard − perhaps you don't need to do the bare root and
>branch bit , just hang them in the roof.
>
>geoff
>
>On 5 Jul 2013, at 14:28, Richard Baxter
> wrote:
>
>> Seeing that you mention Cattleyas, Geoff, maybe you and others can help
>>me. I have several but great difficulty flowering them. They live in my
>>intermediate greenhouse min 15c and in summer max about 32c with 75-80%
>>summer humidity. They are in the lightest part of the greenhouse. They
>>grow in pots vegetatively like weeds, and sheaths appear but do not
>>develop. They get MSU formula fertiliser at most waterings April -
>>October.
>> I have heard that one should stop watering when a sheath appears but
>>that does not seem right in summer when I understand they need as much
>>water as they can get.
>> What is the trick to getting blooms?
>> Everything else grows and blooms beautifully.
>> Very frustrating.
>> Richard

-------------------------------------------------------------

From: Richard Baxter
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] A few more orchid pics.
Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2013 10:00

It is difficult in my greenhouses and where they are positioned, but my
plants are all at the sunny end. I'll give it a try hanging some up high,
though. I'll report back eventually.Thanks, Geoff.
Richard

-------------------------------------------------------------

From: Peter Fowler
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Disas in flower
Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2013 11:00

Hi All.....Hot today. I am not sure how to send more than one photo at a time. Here is a general view of my Disa collection.
Peter

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From: Peter Fowler
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Disa
Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2013 11:00

Another one
Peter

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From: Peter Fowler
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Disa uniflora
Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2013 11:05

This is the famous Disa uniflora. It is quite large. I want to self it and try growing the seed the way the Victorians used to do it. Sprinkle the seed on top of the mother pot.
Peter

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From: Peter Fowler
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Another Disa
Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2013 11:05

-------------------------------------------------------------

From: Peter Fowler
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: More Disa
Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2013 11:05

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From: Geoff Hands
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Disa uniflora
Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2013 12:40

You are doing quite well with your Disas I think, although next year, with bigger, stronger plants (if you can resist dividing them up) you will do even better.
Disa uniflora , btw, is not single flowered in the wild, despite its name. 3 flowers is quite the norm, maybe more − my original slides of Table Mountain plants were digitally converted by a not too good scanner, and seem to have lost details as well as gaining contrast. Or can it be that digital records degrade over time ?

Geoff

Sent from my iPad

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