2012 Archived Messages

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Links to all the Photos and other images accompanying the list messages can be found on the Images page.

January 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-31 February 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-29
March 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-31 April 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-30
May 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-31 June 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-30
July 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-31 August 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-31
September 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-30 October 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-31
November 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-30 December 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-31

March 22—31

From: Geoff
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: more pics
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 21:00
Source: mail.Orchid Talk List

more pics


Eulophia guineense. ( correct spelling). Needs a long dry but warm
rest for maybe 6 months after dropping its leaves – it is
annually deciduous. . When the new growths appear it can be repotted - I
missed it this time , and I won't risk it when the flower spikes appear,
as they do quite soon.
Very thin-leaved, which leads to a dilemma ; the thinner the leaves,
the more easily they mark and burn, so most such orchids I grow without
any or at least much feed. But in general terrestrials take much more -
so which way to go ? I have had it right in the past and got tall spikes
of 20 and 30 flowers, even branched spikes . But presently the pot is
full of back bulbs –( only the lead produces leaves) , so then I
split them up, and divide, and start all over ; maybe it takes a few
years to get up to big bulbs which will give the sort of flowering I
mention. Here I have put 4 clumps of bulbs in this 8 inch dwarf pot ,
probably last year, using Perlite. And as you can see only one growth is
flowering albeit double spiked. Maybe I'll give it another year in this
pot . But I do have it in mind to try using Rockwool cubes and Perlite
mix, and stand in a saucer of water - semi-hydro , as I am trying for my
Thunias, Calanthes etc. this year. Maybe I'll do that next year.
These flowers about 3 inches in the north-south direction btw.

Maxillaria coccinea ;
There are lots of little Maxillarias which are really worth growing ,
although several I had have been shunted off into different genera - not
all in the same one. But this little chap stays as a Max' - as far as I
Superficially and in colour too, it is similar to Max. sophronites ,
but that is the colour and size etc. of the flowers which misleads, and
a look at the small hard bulbs of the latter, as compared to the much
less obvious bulbs and almost extremely miniature cymbidium like growth
here will easily distinguish ; I hope to show this other species soon -
it has been growing well and should produce its flowers by early
Flowers of this M.coccinea species are only about a centimetre across,
but oh so freely given - about 20 buds and flowers this time, and the
plant is not yet filling the No.6 basket I moved it into last summer.
Will grow well in good light - coolish cattleya conditions, likes being
sprayed all the time ( well most plants in baskets do I find ) , but
needs a bit of shade to produce its flowers. Perhaps it would grow well
in the shade too. I'm using straight medium bark as a compost.
I enjoy it - I think you will too.

Thrixspermum saruwatii.
I have a small doubt as to whether this is true to name - certainly my
plant is generally similar to the one shown in IOSPE but rather less
colorful ; but Jay says something about the floral bracts, and their
shape, and I can't see this at all in my plant. But it's the best name
I've got....
Flowers about 16mm max spread. A pretty little thing even if not as
colorful as I'd hoped. And three spikes too ! on what is obviously still
quite a young small plant.

Pleurthallis ghiesbrechtiana ak P. quadrida per Jay Pfahl...
Quite a few Pleuros have this look - a row of hanging bell-like ( or
if you want to be rude - jaw-like) flowers , and differ only in the name
on the label and the colour of the flowers. These are a nice lemony
yellow - which seems a bit shy to appear on the screen - always too
orange, and when color corrected, too green. You'll just have to use
your imagination then !
Part of my birthday present, too long in the parcel, so that the
spikes probably grew , hence the contorted shapes - they should be
straight ! Also a lot of buds dropped off. But enough left to be worth
showing you I think.
Now for the repot - the firm I bought it from grow everything in
large lumps of very hard peat , with enormous air spaces. Orchids love
it, but I would need to employ someone to be permanently watering to
grow everything like that , so its off with the old and on with the new
( medium and fine bark mixed together with a spoonful of Perlite too)
and then maybe I'll be able to show it looking 100% better next time..



From: brian.gould83
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Heating/saving money
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 22:30

To All
I have 2 robinsons greenhouses which are very strong and the advantage is that the glazing bars are thick and they protrude 1inch inside the glass covering. To this I have put 10m polycarbonate sheeting all round the frame and the benefits are well worth the investment.My 10x12 greenhouse cost approx £400 to polycarbonate but I think I saved about 100 ltr of kerosene minimum and I think probably more and this was last winter not the current one Also today at 8pm my greenhouse is 64f as the polycarb being sealed with breathable tape slows the heat loss.The second greenhouse has now been done and the cost is well worth it considering the benefits.To recap I have glass, then a 1inch gap and then 10m polycarb.I estimate my heating savings will pay for the polycarb within 5 years or less.As regards shading white shading applied with a sprayer is far better than any form of fabric.It also has the benefit of becoming transparent when wet which fabric will not. Also having bought some for £60 but it will cover 10,000 sq mtr of glass /tunnels it is cheap in comparison.If kept in the dark the 25ltr tub should last 5 years so a very cost viable product


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