February 2008 mailing list messages

2008 Archived Messages

Click on the week you require.
To return to the main Archive index, click the button at the bottom of the page.
Links to all the Photos and other images accompanying the list messages can be found on the Images page.

From: JIM MATEOSKY
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Cymbidium compost.
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2008

Cymbidiums, cattleyas, tricopilias,draculas,dendrobiums (of 4 or 5 different types)... I make the mix different for the diferent type of plant, cymbidiums seem like they REALLY like water. vs cats. I have a local guy that sells coco pars kind of cheap. my main parts for my mix ( the ones that are easily (and cheaply) available) are charcoal, coco fibre, coco husks, coco shell, rice husks, perlite, peat moss. so I mix what seems to me to be good for which plants I am working with.

I was kind of looking for some cymbidium gurus I have grown some, but I am still taking notes on how it goes and the verdict is still out. I just got a bunch of cymbidiums that need repoting ( and my repotting ideas are usually smaller is better.) so I was hoping to get some hey this really worked great for me of don't use this because the ph gets messed up.....

> Hi there Jim,
>
> You stated that there may be many good commercial composts, or words to
> that effect. I'm not so sure that there are many good commercial
> composts. My reasons are private, but ask if you want to.
>
> Your idea of using coconut hair and larger chunks sounds really great to
> me.
>
> I always think that there is one outright thought when deciding what to
> use for potting Cymbidiums, and that is..........just think what the
> inside of the pot will look like a few years up the road. And it's then
> that the plant will need re-potting. The coco mix that you speak of
> would not be difficult to prize apart/hack off/slice up with a large
> knife, or cut with a saw.
>
> To me, that's what a good Cymbidium compost is all about.
>
> Anybody agree ???

From: John Stanley
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re; binding papers etc
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2008

Some time (a long time?) ago I was asked, by various of you in the forum, how I 'perfect bound' books or bundles of paper using flexible adhesive along the spine. At the rime, equipment to do the job 'properly' was pretty expensive unless large quantities were being bound. I recall that a few of us were binding up an E-version of Vietch's Manual . . .Orchids at the time.
I may have communicated instructions privately but the whole business started here.

For those in the Universe of Aldi Stores (Western Europe?) the store has been selling a cheap thermal binder which acts as a jig to align 6 or 7 mm bundles of A4 papers edge on to a heated strip that melts a thermal glue alomg the spine of special pre-glued folders. Even without the jig, the folders can be used by the financially-challenged with careful use of an alternative flat heat source.

My own originals are still holding together despite repeated flexing but Aldi's system certainly gives a more 'professional' look and will be my choice next time around. Just a thought!

From: Dennis Read
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Coel. mossiae
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2008

A while ago I asked if there were any "Plant-ologists" on the list about selfing a primary hybrid ( Coel. Unchained Melody) No comments but I have just remembered an article in Orchid Digest and I have found it in April/June 2005. An article on crossing a primary hybrid with itself. It clearly shows Masdevallias resembling the specie parents as well as the enhanced hybrid.
This spring I will self pollinate my Coel. Unchained Melodyand in 8/10 years (D.V.) I may see the results.
It begs the question "Where did these false Coel. mossiae originate". As I sad a while back, I have given up specei Coelogyne after purchasingabout 8 and discovering they were incorrect.
Regards from sunny Devon where we are waiting for the ground to dry out to start gardening. Dennis

From: Dennis Read
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Another hybrid
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2008

Here is the first publicity for Coelogyne G. Beryl Read just accepted for registration. It is Coelogyne salmonicolor X Coelogyne mooreana 'Westonbirt'. Pollinated in March 2000 and first flowered this month. The bloom is now 8.5 cms. x 6.5cms and is a pale fawn colour.
Father doing well!
Regards Dennis

From: Roger Grier
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] cymbidium potting mix
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2008

When I spoke of the commercial mixes for Cymbids, and that I was keeping my thoughts to myself, you came up with the answer Max, good on you.

As the saying goes, 'Horses for courses' and you appear to have your money on the favourite.

From: JIM MATEOSKY
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: cross Coelogyne with what?
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2008

I have a Coelogyne pandarata, coelogyne massangeanea, Coelogyne brachyptera, coelogyne dayana and a couple more that I am still working on id'ing. Yes I can (try to) cross these, other "sister" generas for coelogynes? Anyone here of any other crosses, coelogyne's do not ("pega bien" as we say here) pollinate easily.

From: Sjean
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Cymbidium compost.
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2008

Cymbidiums in my opinion are very forgiving of the medium as long as their roots don't stay soggy. I live on the central California coast among many huge Douglas fir trees. The firs produce small fir cones in great abundance than are fairly soft, yet don't decompose too readily. So I use them to pot my cymbiums along with plain old potting soil. When I repot them I find that the orchid has "eaten" all the compost and the pot is filled with roots.

I also use the fir cones for dendrobiums without the potting soil and should probably try them with some other genera.

I find it interesting to see what different people come up with to pot their orchids.
Sjean

PS − I divide my cymbidiums with a small hatchet. I used to be more gentle with them until I saw them being divided with a chain saw at the big orchid show in San Francisco...

From: nancy
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] cymbidium potting mix
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2008

From: Paul Johnson
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Coel. mossiae
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2008

Dennis,
Sorry for not responding on this question. All I can say is that I
have not tried selfing very many primary hybrids of Coelogyne. This
season I tried 8 attempts at selfing across several of my Unchained
Melody and all failed. There were no attempts at selfing upon the
same plant. As a side note, another 6 efforts at crossing Unchained
Melody with other hybrids and species also failed. Questions about
this are pending on David Banks' computer, but given his recent heart
attack any perspectives from him may be at least a few more weeks ahead.
Otherwise, I do not know of anyone else making attempts with this
particular hybrid, though even reports of failures are useful pieces
of information.

Since David Banks referred to a natural hybrid identical to his
anthropogenic Unchained Melody, I suspect that the final word on the
origin of the putative differing sources of these plants will depend
upon some molecular work. In the meantime, I blame the problem on
sloppy identifications, tag writing, and follow-up over time on the
part of presently unknown or no longer extant growers or collectors a
long time ago. We are all vulnerable to bad labels, whether botanical
or horticultural.

From: Esther Koh
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: Sophronitis cernua
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2008

My Sophronitis cernua has flowered again! This is the first time that it has given me multiple spikes. The newer flowers are smaller but I'm still very pleased with the display

From: JIM MATEOSKY
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] cymbidium potting mix
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2008

really ? tell me more, I have 5 horses, I am not so sure my gardener will like this Idea.

From: JIM MATEOSKY
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Cymbidium compost.
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2008

I have heard lots of people warning me about cymbidiums and viruses and spreading virusus other orchids, any comments?

From: Paul Johnson
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] cross Coelogyne with what?
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2008

Jim,
So far there are no registered, and to my knowledge only rumored but
not verified, intergeneric hybrids with Coelogyne. There is the
intergeneric name "Coeleione" that has been derived (e.g., http://retirees.uwaterloo.ca/~jerry/orchids/MAINTER2006.html)
, but there are no registered hybrids under this name on the RHS
site. Otherwise, so far, Coelogyne remains pure and unspoiled at this
level.

Frankly, I do not know where the rumor of Coelogyne species not
pollinating easily started. I think it is more of a matter of people
not trying for many years, or not being adventuresome to try various
combinations. Other groups like the laeliines, Cymbidium,
Phalaenopsis, Dendrobium, and others have just been worked over so
much commercially that there is hardly any intellectual challenge to
them anymore. Sure an argument can be made to not try something, say
a small flowered Dendrochilum with a large flowered Coelogyne, and
there is always the high probability of obtaining a hopeful monster.
But, at least in the beginning with any group, certain amounts of
experimentation need to be done to discover the general patterns of
productivity. This is where the R&D of the orchid horticultural world
starts to fall apart on inventiveness; there still has to be a
reasonable expectation of commercial return so most companies stick
only with the tried and true, even if it is somewhat monotonous. In
other words, Jim, if you can, go for it!

BTW, C. dayana is now C. pulverula, and C. massangeana is now C.
tomentosa; well, at least until the next taxonomic decision.

From: nancy
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Cymbidium compost.
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2008

~~~~~~~~~~~
"Middle age is youth without levity,
and age without decay."
---------Daniel Defoe (1660-1731)

From: Alex Scott
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: cymbidium potting mix
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2008

Jim and Nancy -The only cymbidium I have sat around for years without
flowering till last year I repotted in horse manure and got 3 spikes and
this year 1 spike so i am looking around for some more 'hoss apples'. It
does seem though that they grow in such varied types of medium that it
doesnt matter very much as long as you get he watering right for that
particular compost.
Alex

> Nancy,
>
> really ? tell me more, I have 5 horses, I am not so sure my gardener will
> like this Idea.
>
> Bugs? does this make them worse or more, How is the smell in the greenhouse?
>
> Do you mix it with anything?

From: Ed Deckert
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] cymbidium potting mix
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2008

From: Sjean
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Fwd: Re: [OrchidTalk] Cymbidium compost.
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2008

Yes, there's a lot of talk about cymbidium viruses at my local orchid society and occasionally a cym will be pulled from a plant sale because an "expert" diagnoses it with a virus. What I do is mix a 1:10 bleach mixture in a small bucket and soak the hatchet for a few minutes after I'm done. Then I rinse it off and dry it.

I usually just divide one at a time because it's hard work, andI wait to do it in the late spring or early summer after they've finished blooming and when I have time.

> Sjean,
>
> Do you sterilize the hatchet between plants ?
>
> I have heard lots of people warning me about cymbidiums and viruses and
> spreading virusus other orchids, any comments?

From: Sjean
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Cymbidium compost.
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2008

I'm happy you don't live near me to egg my husband on to do just that. He's greatly amused every time he sees me heading out to the work area with the hatchet. But since I'm carrying a hatchet he doesn't go on to any great extent about it... Smart man!!

Thanks Tricia I'll do that this coming week − sounds an excellent idea to me − Jean

From: Dennis Read
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] cross Coelogyne with what?
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008

I think the main problem with Cielogyne hybridising is time. Some pods ie C. ochrea take over two years to mature. Most take over 18 months. Theyare also not the easiest to pollinate..
I keep to the advice given to me many years ago by an old hybridiser from the north of England − always pollinate in the morningas it then has the erst of the day to start absorbing the pollen,- always use a new flower as the seed parent. I then have my ideas − If you remove the pollen from a flower do not try to pollinate it for an hour as it seems to shut down, − take care to get under the flap covering the sticky bit on the column.
If you are successfil the end of the column will start to swell after a couple of days.
I have had three tries at crossing Coelogynes and Pliones with no success but have not tried the other members of the group such as Chelonistelle
Regards from sunny Devon

> Jim, So far there are no registered, and to my knowledge only rumored
> but not verified, intergeneric hybrids with Coelogyne. There is the
> intergeneric name "Coeleione" that has been derived (e.g.,
> http://retirees.uwaterloo.ca/~jerry/orchids/MAINTER2006.html), but there
> are no registered hybrids under this name on the RHS site. Otherwise, so
> far, Coelogyne remains pure and unspoiled at this level. .....

And what if the plant had a known virus that was not visible to the naked eye????? Perhaps your so called 'Experts' could pass on there experience about a Virus to the members as I am sure many people would not be so afraid of markings on leaves.

It is a vast subject, but I would always say to people, "Don't throw away a good plant until you are absolutely sure about the virus comments.

From: Roger Grier
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Growing Cymbidiums.
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008

It does seem though that they grow in such varied types of medium that it doesn't matter very much as long as you get he watering right for that particular compost.

From: Tricia Garner
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: Virus.
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008

> Yes, there's a lot of talk about cymbidium viruses at my local orchid
> society and occasionally a cym will be pulled from a plant sale because
> an "expert" diagnoses it with a virus. What I do is mix a 1:10 bleach
> mixture in a small bucket and soak the hatchet for a few minutes after
> I'm done. Then I rinse it off and dry it.

> And what if the plant had a known virus that was not visible to the naked
> eye????? Perhaps your so called 'Experts' could pass on there experience
> about a Virus to the members as I am sure many people would not be so
> afraid of markings on leaves.

> It is a vast subject, but I would always say to people, "Don't throw away
> a good plant until you are absolutely sure about the virus comments.

Rocky, I agree with your last paragraph but am confused by the beginning of
your message, as I don't recall Cymbidiums being pulled from plant sales at
Wessex. Also interested to read that you too use a hatchet to divide
cymbidiums.

From: Roger Grier
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Threads. and Fonts.
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008

I noticed that when I replied to Sjean, using the 'Reply' button, making a thread [hope I am correct] that the Font was the same, so it's my fault for not showing it in a different colour.

I have used a hatchet, chopper, whatever, and let's all face it.....Cymbidiums sure do fill a pot tight with their roots.

From: Sjean
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Virus.
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008

As I recall one of the common virus markings is an arrow shaped black line. The experts do admit that the only way to be sure about a virus is to have the plant tested.

I read this on line recently. "Most viruses are clearly visible on new growth. If you have healthy new growth but markings on old leaves, growing conditions are probably to blame."

I'm not sure about the real downside of cymbidium viruses because some of the plants that have been pulled from the sale have gorgeous flowers. I just take necessary precautions by soaking my hatchet in bleach water.

About 7 years ago a member of NHOS sent a disfigured leaf to about 6 well known orchid nurseries asking for their opinion.I cannot remember the full details but one saud − definately over feedind, one said Red Spider Mite, one said too little water but one said virus. The general consensus at the time was if it is a good flower − enjoy it.
The only way to detect a virus is to scientifically test it'
Remember the Tulip Mania was caused by a tulip virus so what are we worried about − It does not attack humans!!!.
Regards from SUNNY Devon . Dennis

I think I must have missed a post or two re virus in Cyms and this is not a problem with me. I am however curious regarding dividing them with a Axe. Whether I have a problem dividing them remains to be seen. I think I have, but the first problem is getting them out of the pot. I have 3 that have been in 12inch pots for some 4 years plus, 2 of them in flower at present, the 3rd just finished, and at my age, with arthritic hands and arms, just lifting them is a achievement.The pots are plastic so it seems that chain or bush saws as well as a axe are the only solution as most of the centre growth is dead. Woe is me, I should have stuck with the Geraniums and Begonias! Any suggestions welcomed.

From: Tricia Garner
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: Threads. and Fonts.
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008

> I noticed that when I replied to Sjean, using the 'Reply' button, making
> a thread [hope I am correct] that the Font was the same, so it's my fault
> for not showing it in a different colour.

Sadly the thread was not continued, so something didn't work as you
intended. I think if you use the reply button the subject should be
unchanged, the quoting should take care of itself and the thread remain
intact.

> I have used a hatchet, chopper, whatever, and let's all face
> it.....Cymbidiums sure do fill a pot tight with their roots.

From: Sjean
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Cymbidiums
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008

Getting them out of big pots can be a problem. If the pots are soft plastic you can cut them with tin snips, if clay − hit them with a hammer, if hard plastic an axe is a good idea.

I recently divided a huge black bamboo that had been in a hard plastic pot for many years. First I whacked the pot to pieces with an axe and then used what's called in America a reciprocating saw that I borrowed from a friend to cut through the tough roots. These saws are designed for demolition work and can saw through most anything.

To divide the cymbidium roots I'd suggest a hatchet, which I don't know if it's called a hatchet in the UK. It's the small hand held axe you use to cut kindling.

I used to grow cymbidiums in 5 gallon plastic pots, but they're so hard to deal with that I'm trying to limit their size to 2 gallon pots these days.

My cymbidiums are blooming gloriously now and I have one that has varigated leaves. When the leaves are young they're all green but as they age they develop lighter colored stripes. Someone at my local orchid society said I could sell it to the Japanese for a lot of money because they love varigated leaf plants. I'd do it if I could find someone!!

It's now sunny and 75 degrees in central California. The plants and the people are loving it.
Sjean

From: Roger Grier
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Removing pots.
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008

Stand the plant in a large enough container filled with a water/soapy mix, so that the pot is completely submerged.

Leave it there overnight, and then, next morning you will hopefully find that the pot comes away quite easily with gentle tap on the top rim.

From: Roger Grier
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Virus markings.
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008

Don't believe it. I once had a Cattleya named, Cattleya Joyce Hannington. It grew very well indeed, lovely bulbs and leaves, all unmarked, but would the damned thing flower.....would it hell.

Then I learnt that it was a virused plant, but why it would never flower for me I do not know?????

From: Roger Grier
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] ?Virus
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008

> About 7 years ago a member of NHOS sent a disfigured leaf to about 6 well
> known orchid nurseries asking for their opinion.I cannot remember the
> full details but one saud − definately over feedind, one said Red Spider
> Mite, one said too little water but one said virus. The general consensus
> at the time was if it is a good flower − enjoy it. The only way to detect
> a virus is to scientifically test it' Remember the Tulip Mania was caused
> by a tulip virus so what are we worried about − It does not attack
> humans!!!.

I wonder if any of the 'Elite Six' said....."Don't know", they would have earned my respect then.

If someone did make a cut into the flesh of Tulip Mania, would that 'virus' be carried to other Tulips ?????

At least, with this 'Orchid Talk' that we all share, it comes apparent to newcomers that all of this 'Virus' talk does not frighten people as much as it used to.

From: Roy Lee
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Seedling Paph
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008

Evening all, a pic of a Paph seedling just opened. It appears to be a rarish cross as only 2 or 3 appear anywhere. There many be more around but not for public view.
Its P. Neeri-Glow sukhakulii x praestans. I could only get one plant at the time but I wish now I could have got more.

From: Geoffrey Hands
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Virus.
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008

Whilst the kit now being marketed costs about twelve pounds sterling ( I
recall, or believe) it only tests one plant. If the plant is virused, you
destroy it and buy a replacement plant. Total cost, if you can find near
flowering size plants these days, say twenty five pounds.

Or you can just destroy it without testing , and buy a replacement − saving
50% of the cost .

You would not , I suppose , test just out of curiosity − well personally I
have better things to do. So one tests on very suspicious plants only.
Yes/no ?

> As I recall one of the common virus markings is an arrow shaped black line.
> The experts do admit that the only way to be sure about a virus is to have
> the plant tested.

> I read this on line recently. "Most viruses are clearly visible on new
> growth. If you have healthy new growth but markings on old leaves, growing
> conditions are probably to blame."

> I'm not sure about the real downside of cymbidium viruses because some of
> the plants that have been pulled from the sale have gorgeous flowers. I
> just take necessary precautions by soaking my hatchet in bleach water.

From: Geoffrey Hands
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Cymbidiums
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008

Ron- when I grew cymbidiums , I too took them up to 12inch or rarely 15 inch
pots, and had similar troubles. My solution is the same as the method I use
for dividing say lupins or delphiniums. A pair of garden forks,
back-to-back, and lever apart. If that don't work, why I have in the very
same tool-shed, a spade. Much easier than a hatchet ( and less likely to do
one-self an in jury too ! )

But I have been thinking of cymbidiums again − I do miss them , and with my
600 square feet of glass, the cost of fuel could be a major problem, the way
things are going ; one thing is sure, my pension only goes down, never up ,
and when fuel costs start to be an even more significant percentage of my
income, something will have to go. It may well be my cattleyas and vandas
etc ; then turn the 'stat down 5 or 6 degrees C and I'm ready to go.

One problem though is where to look for cyms these days, but that's another
question.

> I think I must have missed a post or two re virus in Cyms and this is not a
> problem with me. I am however curious regarding dividing them with a Axe.
> Whether I have a problem dividing them remains to be seen. I think I have,
> but the first problem is getting them out of the pot.

From: Roger Grier
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Seedling Paph
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008

Looking 'around' your growing area I see many other Paphs. One to the left of the flower spike seems to be growing in shall I say clay pellets or a similar medium.

From: Tricia Garner
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: North Hampshire Orchid Society Show
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008

A note to all in the south of England on Saturday − The North Hampshire
Orchid Society Show is being held at The Barn, Viables Craft Centre,
Basingstoke RG22 4BJ.

Displays and sales of orchids, sales of sundries.
Refreshments including light lunches (recommended!).

You need to be very careful when drawing up a specification, otherwise you risk getting what you ask for rather than what you want.

From: Mark Macklam
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Laelia culture advice, please
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008

The plant pictured below, a Laelia Gouldiana, is one that I bought at
our societies' silent auction last November. It has been doing well
since. In November the roots pictured below were barely visible [just
emerging] on the growths and although I've lost a few are growing
fairly quickly. The plant is potted in coconut pieces.
My question to all more knowledgeable than me is, should I leave that
plant as is and just let the roots grow down into the existing medium
as they are presently doing, or should I 'top up' the medium to cover
these new roots.
Thanks in advance for any advice.

From: Alex Scott
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: Growing Cymbidiums.
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008

Hello Rocky − while thinking of potting mediums my Cattleya 'Irene Holguin'
back bulb growing in pebbles is about 3" tall now and quite firm in the pot
so I expect there is a fair amount of root growth. Interesting to see it
develop.
Alex

> Mornin' Alex,
>
> You wrote:
>
> It does seem though that they grow in such varied types of medium that
> it doesn't matter very much as long as you get he watering right for
> that particular compost.
>
> I could not agree more mate.

From: JIM MATEOSKY
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Laelia culture advice, please
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008

Mark,
the plant looks great! don't try to fix it. The point to remember here is these plants in there natuaral habitat grow on trees/rocks there roots are generally exposed or maybe some moss on them, us non jungle dwelling folks merly try to mimick there native environ. When the plant is haelthy and growning well keep doing what your are doing!

From: Geoffrey Hands
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Laelia culture advice, please
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008

L. gouldiana does like to climb out of the pot, and whilst it is not
necessary to put anything around the roots this year, if you don't, then
next year's growths will be that much further away from the compost and the
plant does not seem to do as well when that happens. So I'd put a bit more
there now.
The other reason for covering up roots is that it reduces exposure to being
nibbled by woodlice − which love these relatively thin roots.

From: Roy Lee
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Seedling Paph
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008

Roger, the "red balls" your probably looking at are crushed volcanic rock we call Scoria. I use 4 parts composted pine bark to 1 part of the scoria. Black plastic pots and no crocks. If the plant likes it a little dryer I use squat pots coz they dry out quicker and normall pots for those that like plenty of moisture.
I do have some Phrag in semi hydro. in Hydroton, baked clay balls in plastic disposable cup from the supermarket. I put 2 or 3 holes in the sides about 1 inch up from the bottom. They are growing extremely well.
Thanks for the coments on the Paph, it is very nice.
15c outside, 28c tomorrow. Up to 33c on saturday

From: Roger Grier
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Share your problems and woes.
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008

I thought that if we all shared our stories of moans, groans, problem plants and the like, that for one it would help newcomers to know that we do not just have 100% wonderful plants, but, two, that we all I suspect have our tales of woe to pass on. And who knows, our individual stories may have a happy ending in the form of some constuctural advice.

This morning I was having a fairly close look at the orchids in my greenhouse, maybe some 230 of them.

I noticed a couple of small type Cattleya hybrids had some very slight markings on a couple of their leaves..........I grabbed for the eyeglass which I keep in the greenhouse for a closer observation..........I thought so, bloody Red Spider mite. The leaves and the whole plant was then drenched in 'Provado'. So, do other peoples plant get Red Spider mite now and then??? I had not seen it for a few years.

One other Cattleya that looks very grim devolved that horrible blackish brown colour on one of the backbulbs, and it is squishy to the touch. I will cut away the bad part and hope for the best.

Apart from that all appears O.K. and I see that one or two Cattleyas are showing new growths.

From: Dennis Read
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Share your problems and woes.
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008

A few weeks ago I lost some buds that I put down to snails. I drenched the area with snail/slug killer and the next morning more buds and new growths had gone. Then I remembered that a couple of years ago I had the same problem.
Out came the mouse poison and traps. Result − 3dead mice in the traps and 3 trays of poison eaten. Result − no more eaten buds or new growths. Marks 10/10.
Regards from a very sunny Devon. Dennis

From: Roger Grier
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Cattleya in pebbles.
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008

Nice to hear from you and that you are trying a Cattleya in pebbles. First question matey is, are the pebbles smooth surface type pebbles? I only ask this as some people grow them in thin walled plastic pots, and so every time the pot is lifted it gives, and the pebbles can move about.

One thing about growing in pebbles is that they never rot, decay, turn acidic, and they sure do make for good air passages.

From: Roger Grier
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Marks, Laelia.
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008

First, it is one of those 'Ladder orchids' as my mate calls them. Those that gradually grow at the inclination of a ladder. Last bulb is half way down in the medium, and the newest bulbs base is at pot rim level.

Looking at your photo, I would say that if I took a stick and laid it across the rim from side to side, the bottom of the last bulb would be at that level..........just the place that it should be.

If we all look at many photos of orchids growing in the wild, we would see that the new roots GRAB HOLD of their hosts almost as soon as possible. So, if it was my plant, I would top up with the cocoa nut pieces.

The root just to the left of the biggest bunch..........the one showing the inner tough core. If it is dead, then cut it off flush to the rhizome. If it is not dead, then just cut back into the good part, and hopefully it will shoot a new piece.

One last thing to say. As it is an cocoa nut husk that will not turn nasty, there is a good chance that the half buried backbulbs may throw up a new growth.

From: Roger Grier
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Buying orchids.
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008

I have been looking at the website of 'Regal Orchids' and I am interested in two or three plants.

From: Mark Macklam
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Marks, Laelia. and Phal Luddemania
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008

Thanks to all who have replied to my query. All excellent advice and
well taken. So, have decided to top up the plant. I do have cocoa nut
bits on hand, but also have porous clay balls, too. Would these be
just as good?

On a completely different subject, I have a healthy Phal Luddemannia
[and one not so as it was attacked by scale while we were away on
vacation], well rooted and showing growth. But it is so very slow to
grow out leaves, compared to other plants. Is this other peoples
experience, too?

From: Alex Scott
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: Cattleya in pebbles.
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008

I think you mean me Rocky − yes I will try and get a photo. There are
pieces of broken pot in the pebbles to stop them rolling about.
Regards, Alex

> Hello Max,
>
> Nice to hear from you and that you are trying a Cattleya in pebbles.
> First question matey is, are the pebbles smooth surface type pebbles?
> I only ask this as some people grow them in thin walled plastic pots,
> and so every time the pot is lifted it gives, and the pebbles can move
> about.

From: Ron Bower
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Silent Auction
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008

I seem to have lost the email, but yesterday or the day before some one referred to a "Silent Auction." I can't begin to realise how there can be such an event.
How can you bid if you have to be silent.
Please some one explain.

MONTH	DATE	DATE	DATE	DATE	MONTH	DATE	DATE	DATE	DATE
January	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-31	February	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-29
March	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-31	April	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-30
May	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-31	June	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-30
July	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-31	August	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-31
September	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-30	October	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-31
November	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-30	December	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-31

2008 Archived Messages

February 8—14