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2005 Archived Messages


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MONTHDATEDATEDATEDATEMONTHDATEDATEDATEDATE
January 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-31 February 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-28
March 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-31 April 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-30
May 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-31 June 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-30
July 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-31 August 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-31
September 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-30 October 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-31
November 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-30 December 1-7 8-14 15-21 22-31

May 22-31

From: Jean-Paul Pichardie
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] RE: Newbury
Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 09:10


Hello
I am planning to hop over from Dieppe to collect the Paphs I have ordered from Sam Tsui. What is the best day? Friday, Saturday or Sunday? Thanks in advance.
Yours
Jean-Paul



From: francis quesada pallares
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Re: New orchid adquisitions!
Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 10:35


Hi Dennis,

It definetely says Lycaste skinnery var. kytiriophora.
But having a second look at it, I have discovered a
second label (behind the first one) which does gives
the hybrid parentage that you have just pointed out.

Thanks for the pointer.

Francis.



From: suzy
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Speckles on mule leaf Oncidium
Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 16:50


hello everyone,

Looking for some advice. My mule leaf Oncidium (Josephine) is growing new
roots and leaves but the new leaves are forming with dark reddy brown
speckles. Someone suggested that the water contains too much iron (I am
currently using Tap water but am switching to rain water, when i can get
it).
Is it lacking feed?, has it a virus? Will it flower while its like that?
what do I do?????????

You guys know so much.

tHanks

regards

Suzy



From: Geoffrey Hands
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] RE: Newbury
Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 19:50


Friday is not an official day „ it is setting up day , when the stands are
being erected and the displays mounted. It is by no means certain that Sam
will be there on Friday , as I expect he has very little to do in that area
, and generally speaking , even if plants are brought to order, it is not
certain that they will be available then..

Saturday early , will be the quietist time „ apart from the last hour or
so on Sunday „ which is not recommended as Sam may panic and think you are
not coming ( but of course if you have paid in advance, then no worry).
Otherwise, I would not risk it that late..

Saturday afternoon is the busiest time.


Geoff.



From: Roger Grier
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Speckles on mule leaf Oncidium
Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 20:15


Hello Suzy,

You'll sleep tight tonight my friend..........those 'speckles' on the new
leaves are exactly as Mother Nature intended.

The photo sure did help.

Kind regards, Rocky.



From: Roger Grier
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Miltonias.
Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 20:20


I decided to ask once again about what we all regard is the best way to cultivate Miltonias, and to keep the plants in good health from year to year.

I ask this question as so many newcomers, and us 'Old hands' all suffer the same fate with these sometimes [always] fickle orchids.

My main question is this:

Those of you that grow Miltonias which are hybrids and were purchased from Orchid Suppliers and/or Garden Centres, do you grow them Intermediate or Warm?

Regards, Rocky.



From: jns tropic
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Speckles on mule leaf Oncidium
Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 23:15


Those spots look very natural to me. The spots are
normal for many mule ear Oncidiums. Your plant looks
happy as a lark, don't worry just enjoy it.



From: Ronald Newstead
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] RE: Equitants.
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 00:15


Hi Esther!
I have been away and am just catching up with past email correspondence.
Where are you?
I am in Portugal most of the time and have a friend with a cork plantation
so I think that I can help but I need your address..

Ron

This email has been checked by Norton Internet Security



From: dennis READ
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] RE: Newbury
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 09:10


Friday is set upday. It is open to the public on saturday and sunday. I suggest saturday. Regards



From: suzy
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Re: Speckles on mule leaf Oncidium
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 09:25


Thanks Guys. I'm new to orchids, and while all my orchids seem quite happy
in their spots around the house, I do worry about my babies.

You will probably be hearing from me again.

Thanks

Regards

Suzy



From: jan
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: Newbury - and cork
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 10:10


Hello everyone,

I'm quite new to this list, so here's an introduction: I live in Denham
(near Slough) where I grow a small number of orchids, mostly young,
since I've only just started my collection. I keep them on my window
sills in home made 'mist chambers': a deep plastic tray bought in the
garden centre, 4 pieces of perpex assembled so that they can stand on
the edge of the tray and finally a ultrasonic mist generator that I
bought in Maplin. The plants stand on a grid with about 4" to the bottom
of the tray, which is filled with water. The entire thing is open at the
top - the theory being that the mist generates a half-hour fog every
morning and it then dries out during the day. Since I constructed these
'mist chambers' the plants have really come back to life, so it seems to
work.

About Newbury: I'm a bit confused - when I saearch for 'Newbury' and
orchids on the net, it seems that there was a show this weekend (21/5
and 22/5), but from the thread on this list I gather that it is next
weekend? Is there a definitive website?

Cork: Somebody mentioned the word 'cork' and having a friend that owns a
cork plantation. Would it be possible to buy a moderately large quantity
of virgin cork bark that way? So far all I have been able to find in UK
is either floor tiles or something obscenely expensive from aquarium
shops. But maybe others on the list have better experiences?

/jan


From: Jean-Paul Pichardie
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] RE: Newbury
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 10:55


Hello Geoff,
Many thanks for the information. I shall be there on the saturday then. I hope the weather will be fine.
Yours
Jean-Paul



From: dennis READ
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Newbury - and cork
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 17:15


As an old codger I hesitate to give any one advice on computers but if you
enter ,in Google, orchids thenuk then newbury you will get a host of info.
Dates are 25 and 26 June. Regards

"jan" wrote:

> Hello everyone,
>
> I'm quite new to this list, so here's an introduction: I live in Denham
> (near Slough) where I grow a small number of orchids, mostly young,
> since I've only just started my collection. I keep them on my window
> sills in home made 'mist chambers': a deep plastic tray bought in the
> garden centre, 4 pieces of perpex assembled so that they can stand on
> the edge of the tray and finally a ultrasonic mist generator that I
> bought in Maplin. The plants stand on a grid with about 4" to the bottom
> of the tray, which is filled with water. The entire thing is open at the
> top - the theory being that the mist generates a half-hour fog every
> morning and it then dries out during the day. Since I constructed these
> 'mist chambers' the plants have really come back to life, so it seems to
> work.
>
> About Newbury: I'm a bit confused - when I saearch for 'Newbury' and
> orchids on the net, it seems that there was a show this weekend (21/5
> and 22/5), but from the thread on this list I gather that it is next
> weekend? Is there a definitive website?
>
> Cork: Somebody mentioned the word 'cork' and having a friend that owns a
> cork plantation. Would it be possible to buy a moderately large quantity
> of virgin cork bark that way? So far all I have been able to find in UK
> is either floor tiles or something obscenely expensive from aquarium
> shops. But maybe others on the list have better experiences?
>
> /jan


From: Geoffrey Hands
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Newbury - and cork
Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 19:50


Newbury is a large showground, and there are many shows throughout the year
- like dog-shows, band-shows etc.. When we say Newbury , we mean the Newbury
International Orchid show , which is the last week-end in JUNE , not May. It
is probably the best orchid show in UK , unless there happens to be a
European Congress or something similar in any particular year. But even so ,
"our" Newbury , is still part of a general show with a traction engine
display , probably a dog show, tents full of general tat, outdoor garden
furniture etc. etc.

geoff



From: Tricia Garner
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: Newbury - and cork
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 09:05


Just to add to what others have said, you can visit www.geocities.com/colinhowe_98 for more information on the Newbury International Orchid Show.

--

Tricia


I wished the buck stopped here, as I could use a few.


From: len.handley
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Reply to Jan
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 10:35


Hi Jan,
I think you would get a lot of benefit from joining your local orchid
society, the Thames Valley Orchid Society.This meets once a month on the
third Friday at Marlow. You'd be welcome to come as a visitor to see if you
like the idea. I am the current treasurer so e-mail me direct so I can give
you more details.
Regards,
Len Handley


From: dennis READ
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Miltonias.
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 14:10


I have killed many Miltonias growing them intermediate. I now grow then warm in aquatic plant baskets so they dry out quickly. regards

Roger Grier wrote:

I decided to ask once again about what we all regard is the best way to cultivate Miltonias, and to keep the plants in good health from year to year.

I ask this question as so many newcomers, and us 'Old hands' all suffer the same fate with these sometimes [always] fickle orchids.

My main question is this:

Those of you that grow Miltonias which are hybrids and were purchased from Orchid Suppliers and/or Garden Centres, do you grow them Intermediate or Warm?

Regards, Rocky.


From: Ron Bower
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Zycos flowering frequency.
Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 16:05


Thank you Geoff and Andy for your comments. Geoff for your interesting, accurate and useful common sense comments as can be expected from you.Regards to all, Ronbow.


From: Jon Loose
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: UK Flask import paperwork
Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 16:15


Hi folks


Has anyone any experience of bringing flasks through customs (from the USA)?
I wondered if import licences are required - I believe that CITES and
phyto-sanitory certificates aren't needed - am I right?


Jonathon



From: Geoffrey Hands
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: a few pictures
Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 16:50


Two plants here ; one is the not often seen Thunia Bensoniae „ flowering
rather early for this annually deciduous plant , but with flowers almost 7
inches across, there can‹t be much wrong with the culture I think.


The other is Oncidium Normans Bay ›Splinter“ AM/RHS .

Grown on the bench in my old pit house, the spikes hit the roof „ only four
foot or so up „ long before they started to branch and produce buds, so I
never saw the flowers. Here, with the roof 8 feet above the bench I felt
happier , but no , the spikes again hit the roof „ two on one bulb by the
way. So I put it on the floor, and they continued to grow . So I gave up ,
and trained them around in a circle. I have not attempted to count the
flowers „ it must be many not merely several hundredŶ

I am taking it to the Orchid Society tonight - they ought to give me a
medal for getting it there ! It‹s not the easiest thing in the world to take
in a car. Good job I didn‹t plan to go on my bike !


All this from one of Arthur Bell‹s £5 bargain box plants a few years ago.
Grown in hydroculture until last September, and in hydroponics since then.


Geoff


From: James H
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: Miltonias
Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 20:15


i grow my miltonias in clay pots my sister makes, they have a mesh
bottom and are full of holes in the sides, i use either bark or
crushed up tiles or broken pottery and they grow like weeds, the only
time i ever killed one was when i put it in a plastic pot and watered
it too much( thinking it would be able to take half the waterings of
the clay pots).. as for temps i keep them inside at room temp but i
find that if i open a window and let some cooler air in they do
better.
James


From: Rudolf Günnel
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] a few pictures
Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 07:35


Hello Geoff,

Your Oncidium Normans Bay ›Splinter“ is gorgeous.
Could it be, you are looking a little bit too serious beside such a
stunning plant, aren‹t you?
Best regards from sunny Germany, Rudolf.



From: Roger Grier
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: MIltonias.
Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 13:50


Hi James, hereafter known as the 'Miltonia King',

Thank you very much for the information James which was music to my ears, especially as it reminded me of a picture at the back of one of the Bulletin's of the American Orchid Society magazines..........many years ago. It showed the most fabulous Miltonia growing in a plastic kitchen colander. If I think long and hard enough I will come up with the name. !!!

As I grow my Miltonias almost the same as you, can you please give us all some growing information. Temperature etc.

Kind regards, Rocky.



From: Roger Grier
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: The Night Raider.
Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 14:00


Hi all,

Yes, the 'Night Raider' has struck again.

I have what I call a typical Odontoglossum type hybrid. It has grown me two nice new bulbs, and last week I noticed that I had a spike emerging from each growth.

I was really chuffed at this and I was showing the Sister-in-Law when my jaw dropped to the floor..........I could see a huge chunk missing from one of the spikes, just below the start of the buds. Damn and blast, and under my breath another few choice expressions.

Thing is, when you see new spikes emerging do you do anything to prevent 'Night Raiders'? By this I mean for example, do you sprinkle a few slug pellets on top of the compost. Spray the top of the compost or whatever.

I feel sure that a collective response will be very beneficial.

Regards, Rocky.



From: Andy Mckeown
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] The Night Raider and other bits.
Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 18:25


Hi Rocky

You have my sympathies on this. Some time ago I posted a pic of my first flowering of a seedling L harpophylla - 2 days later it was shredded. I don't much like using slug pellets and I certainly would not use them outside but this was the last straw. Since then I have used a few mini slug pellets on all pots as sometimes the slugs spot the spikes before I do.

Geoff Those plants were really splendid - not much wrong with the cultue indeed! The Thunia is a fantastic colour. Some time ago you wrote about bringing some vandas back from Thailand - how do you go about getting the import permits?

Here's a pic of D thrysiflorium in flower at the moment. I gave it the treatment last oct/nov that you suggested Geoff and this is the best it's been. In fact all the cooler growing dendrobes that I did this with have done very well and a couple that I didn't have not. So this will be standard from now on.


Andy


From: Geoffrey Hands
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Re: Importing orchids - legally.
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 09:30


To bring orchids into UK ( EXCEPT from the EU ) you need to have three
pieces of paper : an export permit and a phytosanitary certificate from the
country of origin , and an import licence.


To get the import licence , apply to DEFRA ( Dept of the Environment and for
Rural Affairs „ unless their name has been changed „ againŶ) at their
Bristol Office. You call them and ask for the Wildlife Licensing Dept, tell
them what you want, and they will send you the forms.


When you return the forms , before getting your permit, you MUST include a
copy of the Export permit. The last time I did an importation it took 7
weeks, between sending off the forms and getting the papers I needed to take
with me abroad where I was going to buy the plants. But like most Gov.
depts., this varies ( remember the time it took 10 months to get a passport
?) .


And the permit is valid for 6 months only, from the date of issue. So it all
needs to be timed very carefully. The export permit may also be time-dated,
and if any permit is a day out of time, the importation is illegal and will
be confiscated ( it happened to one of the traders arriving at the World
Orchid Conference in Dijon).


So you have to start by choosing your overseas supplier, getting their
catalogue etc., deciding what you intend to order, and persuading them to
send you an invoice ( not essential but certainly helpful to attach a copy
to the forms when you send them back to Defra) and a copy of the export
licence they will use.


You can , when filling in your forms just say › 25 Vandaceous hybrids“
without spelling them out . Since, on one interpretation of the proposed new
regulations shortly after I did my last import there was the proposal to
charge a fixed fee for each ITEM , 25 Vandaceous hybrids would have paid one
fee, but 1 V.Faye Bennet, 1 V.Kasems Delight,and 1 1 V.Gordon Dillon would
have paid 3 feesŶI don‹t know what the fees are now ; I read proposals , but
know they will be changed 7 times before I will think of doing another
import, so I am not up to speed. But Defra will of course tell you.


If they are species, you must identify each one „ 10 Vandaceous species will
not be accepted. The reason is that some species are on the banned list (
V.coerulea was, although I heard recently that it may be taken off that
list) All Paphs species are on that list , and so on. But your supplier will
know which is which in that respect.


For many countries you need to send one copy of the import permit ahead, so
that they can start preparing the order „ they have a set of bureaucrats to
deal with too . In USA I hear , it can now take 10 months to get through the
paperworkŶ. Its best „ assuming you are dealing with a reputable nursery, to
send a Bankers Draft of say half the cost at the same time „ then they will
take your order seriously. I expect they get a lot of foreign tourists who
say they are coming with permits and cash , but who never turn up. I have
found it possible with some nurseries to make the order for so many hybrids,
and then go to the nursery and pick the ones I want. But don‹t expect to doi
this 10 minutes before your plane back home. They will tell you how far in
advance, but usually a couple of days at least, to allow time for
inspections, certification etc. And do expect to pay for all the permits and
running about, unless your order is a large one.


The forms from UK come in multi-coloured sets. You need to read the fine
print very carefully to work out which colour goes outside the box of
plants, which colour goes inside, which one is handed in , etc.


When you return, walk through the Red channel and declare. I have never been
asked to pay much duty ,frequently none at all , and they seem to give
double greenshield stamps to anyone who does declare ! This is true when I
have bought other things too, like a Persian carpet or an antique piece of
whatever ; I guess 99% of people are dishonest and try to smuggle, or am I
being cynical now ?


You must keep the plants at your declared address for a certain time after
importation „ I think it is 6 weeks.


I have found that when I have gone through this rigmarole „ probably with an
import of 100% hybrids, which ought not to be in the system at all , I may
well find that customs have gone to lunch and I just walk through.


By the way , if you are going to be over-weight for your luggage allowance,
fly business class, with one of the smaller and more outlandish airlines
and they are likely to be much more generous than if you are on a budget
cheapie ticket ( Air China is superb upstairs on the Jumbo even if they
don‹t give you a fully reclining four-poster, and much better food than BA
anyway apart from the champagne , and the air-hostesses are much prettierŶI
am prejudiced „ I was 70Kg overweight the last time and did not pay
anythingŶbut of course you can‹t rely on it ) . BA will charge you a fortune
per kilo. Thai Air will negotiate , if you put on a winning smile and are
very polite and point out that you are supporting their home industry , the
last time with them „ on a fullprice Economy class ticket I had two large
boxes of orchids , each needing a separate trolley , and I paid £25..Ŷ


My experiences of doing an importation when the orchids were not ›passenger
accompanied luggage“ are not good. They will almost certainly go to London
Heathrow Freight terminal and be put in a corner. You may get a call three
weeks later „ after you have spent hours on the telephone receiving denials
that they have arrived „ and you go to fetch them, only to find that some
over-zealous customs officer can‹t find live orchid plants in his list of
tariffs, and he will charge duty as if they were silk flowers ( probably
100% - calculated on the price shown on the invoice Plus the cost of
air-freight, and then charge you VAT on the orchids+ freight+ duty „ which
will about treble the price ; and by that time most are dead anyway.) Or I
ended up using an Import Agent at the airport , who did all the work but
charged me as much as the plants costŶ


Air-mail parcel post works better „ but only of course for smallish parcels.



But at the end of the day , you may well have plants which you simply cannot
buy in UK „ which is why I did it. When it all worked well, and I paid US$6
for a good flowering sized Vanda which may also get me an FCC one
day- ŶŶ


Geoff


Andy Mckeown wrote:


Geoff Those plants were really splendid - not much wrong with the cultue
indeed! The Thunia is a fantastic colour. Some time ago you wrote about
bringing some vandas back from Thailand - how do you go about getting the
import permits?




From: francis quesada pallares
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Re: The Night Raider and other bits.
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 09:35


Hi Andy,

Your Den Thysrsiflorum looks great. I recently bought
one in flower, and although the flowers do not seem to
last for too long, they certainly are beautiful!

What is the treatment for Cool dendrobiums that Geoff
suggested? I most certainly would love to get some
more flowers on the dens I have next year.

Cheers,

Francis.



From: P G Hieke
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Den. thrysiflorum
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 16:15


Hi Andy,
just one word, phantastic.
Regards
Peter from Bloubergstrand



From: Roger Grier
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: How to loose friends.
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 16:20


Hi Andy,

Hope you like my humorous 'Subject'. First you agree with me about the mini slug pellets, and tell me of your misfortune, then you show me a photo of your D. thyrsiflorum. Wow! What a splendid plant. Congratulations Andy.

I must also give you full marks for the correct spelling of 'thyrsiflorum', unlike some of the other mixtures, such as thrisiflorum and thyrisiflorum.

In one of my Botanical language books dated 1873, the word THYRSUS states:- A branched raceme or panicle, in which the middle branches are longer than the upper and lower.

Andy can I please ask you to recap on the information that Geoff gave as it sure worked for you.

Regards, Roger.



From: dennis READ
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: orchid picture
Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 19:45


At the Malvern Spring Garden Show on a stall of garden perenials I saw a plant labeled ''Estella'' . It looked like a Dactylorahiza so I bought it.
At home i found on 'Wild Cat' there was a hybrid called Dactylorahiza Estella. Two weeks later it has opened into the flower attached. I think it is magnificent. Regards.

From: jan
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] The Night Raider.
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 10:25


Ah, yes, slugs, if only I had slugs... Or rather, if that was all that
plagued my orchids.

All through the winter I've had mice, but fortunately they didn't find a
way in to my orchids, which I keep 'fenced off', but at one point they
seemed to queue up for the mouse trap. I'm sure if I had set up enough
traps, I could have recorded an hour's flamenco dance or so.

And as if that wasn't enough, I had a Bletilla striata just outside my
door; it had reached quite decent proportions and was developing a large
number of spikes. But just a couple of days ago it had been bug up by a
rabbit and chewed to pieces - it may have eaten some, but it was mostly
just destroyed for fun it would seem. I have decided to get myself a gun
- something like a 40" Haubitzer - and go hunting. And then I will just
rip it apart and strew it around, just for fun, like.

/jan



From: Roger Grier
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Dennis's find.
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 18:10


Hi Dennis,

What with me loosing that flower spike to 'The Night Raider', then Andy showing his superb Dendrobium thrysiflorum, and now you with that terrific find at the Malvern Show..........talk about rubbing salt in the wounds!!!

Dennis, a few questions please, knowing how interested I am in our native orchids.

First question. What is 'Wild Cat'?

Second question. From your photo it looks as if the plants leaves have no markings whatsoever, is this correct?

Statement. The flower spike shape, and the shape of the lip says 'Common Marsh Orchid', but the markings on the lip tell a different story. Part Early Marsh, part Common Marsh.

I look forward to your answers Dennis.

I'm not being rude in asking how much you paid for it, and you do not have to tell me, but, as there will soon be more 'outlets/nurseries' selling terrestrials I just wanted to keep the prices in my head for future reference.

Kind regards, Roger.



From: dennis READ
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Dennis's find.
Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 09:10


Roger, I spelt it incorrectly - it's Wildcatt. Its an American produced CD that shows all hybrid orchids in a very simple form that can be interogated.
The leaves have no markings.
The hybrid is Dact. foliosa x Dact. elata. It is 48cm high from the top of the pot and the flower part is 15 cms long.
I paid, I think, £10. Regards




From: Andy Mckeown
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: conditioning soft can dendrobiums
Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 12:05


Thanks for your comments on my D Thyrsiflorum. As regards culture this is what I know:

In October 2004 I wrote

I am now starting to condition my soft cane dendrobiums for flowering. I move them to a cooler brighter position and let them dry out - this induced flowering in some that I tried last year. Does anyone know if there is a critical time for them to remain cool?

Geoff replied

I reckon that sometime from the middle of October up to the end of November will work well for many Dendrobiums - about 6 weeks is usually long enough. In my experiments carried out over several years, I concluded that dryness is not the critical factor, but coolness - or even coldness is. Dryness does go well with coolness in that it could be harmful for a plant to be both seriously wet and cold at one and the same time, but the problem with dryness may be cane shrivelling.

One year I left some Dend. Nobile hybrids ( grown in hydroculture) standing in water all through the winter and had super plump canes, and super flowering too the following spring - with temperatures going down to mid 40's F. But the next year doing the same the temperature went unintentionally low for too long - down to mid thirties F, and I lost a lot of growths. So don't take coolness too far !

Incidentally in my experiments I tried to evaluate light, temperature and dryness separately and in combinations ; ( using sun-lamps , etc.) and concluded that temperature is the only really relevant factor.

As a result of this I did as follows:

I moved them for 6 weeks to an unshaded south facing window ledge indoors and left the window open at night. So they got maximum light and a marked drop in temperature - this was Oct-Dec when it can get pretty brisk in the Mendips! As I grow them in hydro culture they stood in pure rainwater with no feed added.

I treated 10 plant types in this way and the only one that didn't do it's stuff was D nobile although the yamamoto hybrids were really fantastic. I did not condition D parishii or anosmum like this as I thought it too cold for them and they have not flowered well. Other definitely warmer types like atroviolaceum and it's hybrids I removed the feed but kept them moist at intermediate temps and they too have done well.


As regards the thyrsiflorum , the first year I had it I left it in intermediate temps, with feed - no flowers. The second year I put it outside for the summer until about mid sept - two flower spikes. This year as above 6 flower spikes plus two others that aborted! I doubt if this rate of increase is solely due to it getting older/bigger.

Hope this helps

Andy


From: Andy Mckeown
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Re: Importing orchids - legally.
Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 12:10


Thanks for the info on this Geoff. It is good to have something to go on before I contact DEFRA and there is nothing pertinant on thier website - indeed neither "orchid" nor "wildlife licensing" feature on their search engine. I'm steeling myself for phoning them....

Andy


From: James H
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: MIltonias
Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 16:15


My growing conditions are the same for all my orchids, about 20C in
winter and 20-35 in summer, there is only a small nightime temp change
(too bad for my phals) i keep them under bright light from a 250W MH
bulb, i try to give them as much light as i can and i water often as i
can, i feed 28-14-14 during vegitave growth then 18-22-18 with the
occasional 14-14-14 left over from any houseplants. i fertilize at
just under full strength not 1/4 like is usually recomended, and i
always make sure my ferts have trace elements added. im starting to
get into aquarium plants so i might start using my own mixed ferts
soon. i dont have a light meter so i cant check light values. make
sure your plants are not too close together and have lots of air i
have found that miltonias dont do well in stale air. if there is
anything else you want some info on please feel free to ask and i will
answer if i can.
James


From: dennis READ
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] UK Flask import paperwork
Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 19:15


As nobody has responded, I will try. Theoretically, as long as it is not a forbidden orchid, you can import flasks of seedlings. As theyare sealed no phytosanitary cert. is required. I have imported a few from Australia with no problems.
Unfortunately not all customs officials understand the rules. My advice is import by post.
Regards

Jon Loose wrote:

Hi folks

Has anyone any experience of bringing flasks through customs (from the USA)? I wondered if import licences are required - I believe that CITES and phyto-sanitory certificates aren't needed - am I right?

Jonathon




From: francis quesada pallares
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Rehousing my orchids!
Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 19:55


Hi group!

I have been allowed to move my orchids to the school
greenhouse, so as soon as it is up to standard, the
plants will be getting there, where I hope they'll get
better conditions than in my flat.

The problem is, I have never had a green house before,
so I don't know much about how to make sure the
greenhouse will be apropriate for them.

The greenhouse is small, maybe 3X2 metres. The door is
facing west, and the long axis face south and north,
so there is strong light all day through. I have not
checked the temp. range in it yet. And I will be
getting a rainwater butt to make sure the water is
better quality than the tap water provided at home.

My first concern is light levels. I'm sure that with
sun hitting the plants all day long, most of my
orchids will suffer, but I don't want to use bubble
wrap for the glass, as this will probably raise the
temps to extremes, and with it being a smallish
building, it could cause serious problems. What is the
best option and where from? I was thinking shade
cloth/cheese cloth (I'm not sure what is it called),
but I haven't got a clue where to get it from. And for
the temp, there are only two small vents on the roof,
so I wanted to use the shading in only one of the
sides, probably only on the roof area, leaving the
side panels unshaded, so the plants that can stand the
strongest light levels could benefit from that. Next
problem would be how to keep the humidity at the right
levels, considering that I can't get there every five
minutes, and also at a cheap prize, as the greenhouse
is not close to any electrical outlets, so I can't
connect any machines inside the greenhouse.

Any advice will be most grateful received, so please,
fire away any ideas.

Thanks,

Francis.


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