2005 mailing list messages

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From: Dr Chong-Yee Khoo
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Dendrobium aberrans SOLD OUT
Date: Fri, 08 Apr 2005 00:20

The response to the offer of Dendrobium aberrans has been tremendous, and unfortunately I have sold out of the current lot of plants. I shall be replying to the first four people who posted replies, and shall assign plants according to this order.

From: jns tropic
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: Tree Fern slab.
Date: Fri, 08 Apr 2005 15:25

Enclosed is a picture of a nodosa hybrid that has been
growing for 10 years on a tree-fern slab. The problem
is not if tree-fern is good or bad, but is it the
right media for your conditions. In the 40's and 50's
I used osmunda as my only media for epiphytes. At
that time we didn't have any liquid fertilizers. Then
we shifted too bark from trees that did not naturally
support orchids). I had problems with the bark and
stayed with osmunda. But when tree fern came along I
shifted to this new product with great success. It
could hold up to the fertilizers that we had started
to use. Even the Phals were in tree-fern. When New
Zealand moss came on the market I used it for the
Phals. Now I use all sorts to media depending on the
orchid in question. But generally the media we use
was never the choice of the orchid, but the growers
selection according to the conditions at hand.
I have just posted pictures of two seedling C.
skinneri alba on my web site. I have a clone of a
skinneri alba that has an FCC-AOS and I like my first
flowering seedlings better.

From: Andy Mckeown
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: roots
Date: Sat, 09 Apr 2005 17:25

Somehow I missed potting on this cattleya - hence it is creeping over the edge of the pot. The photo shows thriving roots which are permanently submerged in nutrient solution.

From: Andy Mckeown
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: leaf
Date: Sat, 09 Apr 2005 17:30

Any ideas what causes these necrotic areas? They ocassionally develop in cattleya leaves.

From: Andy Mckeown
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: flowers
Date: Sat, 09 Apr 2005 17:35

From: Andy Mckeown
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: name that plant
Date: Sat, 09 Apr 2005 17:45

This dendrobium is currently covered in flowers and is filling the orchid house with perfume. I have been calling it Chocolate eye for want of a better name. Can anyone identify it?

The other photo is Dialaelia Snowflake Frosty. It has 10 flowers on two spikes and is looking rather nice.

Chong-Yee I am sorry to have missed you at Dijon - I did go to your society's display a couple of times. Fantastic plants but on Friday I though it was like a cross between a scrum and the first day of the Harrods sale. I went back on the Saturday to take photos but on look at the queue on such a bitterly cold day was enough. Dijon though is a very pleasant city with ample scope for other diversions!

From: Roger Grier
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Odontioda George McMahon.
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 09:30

I do not know the exact parentage of my Odontioda George McMahon, but I do wonder why no red colouration is visible at all.

No doubt someone who knows about the breeding of the type of crosses will give a suitable answer.

From: Tricia Garner
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Re: Odontioda George McMahon.
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 11:15

I visited http://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/registration_orchids.asp clicked on
Grex Name Search (about halfway down the page) and got this for Odontioda
George McMahon:

From: Geoffrey Hands
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] leaf
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 14:35

It seems to me that if ones growing conditions are too dry , the plants are
permanently stressed.

It is impossible to keep to the dividing line between too dry and too humid
- it doesn't happen in the wild, and it certainly doesn't happen in my
greenhouse.

A monthly spray with a disinfectant , like Physan at the rate of 1:1000 ( 1
teaspoon in 1 litre ) does minimise it. ( Alan Moon's advice, when he was
boss at The Eric Young Foundation)

Next problem - how to remember to do it next month, and the month after that
and so on...

From: Geoffrey Hands
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Odontioda George McMahon.
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 14:55

1.You need the RHS Orchid Register CD , which will give you not only
the parentage, but the whole family tree . My copy is the 1998 version ( if
anyone knows that a later version is available I will be pleased to hear).

2.Cochlioda noezliana was used twice in the breeding of this 11th
generation hybrid - and accounts for 2.34% of the nominal make-up . Odm
crispum on the other hand accounts for 45 % ! There are 7 other species
involved.

3.The actual cross is Odm Parade x Oda Golden Rialto - so the
Cochlioda enters via an odontioda where the red colour was bred out several
generations ago .

4.I suppose it is theoretically possible that there some recessive red
genes in there somewhere , but my poor understanding of orchid genetics
leads me to think that this is rather unlikely.

From: aeranthes
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: photos
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 16:25

What wonderful orchids and first class photos Andy. Thanks for sharing. I was delighted to see your 'Dialaelia Snowflake Frosty' as I have one which hasn't flowered yet. I now know what to expect and the sooner it flowers the better! Jean

From: Roger Grier
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Andy's plants.
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 16:40

No idea about the Dendrobe, but I just love the Dialaelia. I have always been after one, so can you suggest where to buy it please. I did once have a piece of Diacrium which came from Barbados, but when our friends tore a piece from the Mother plant it had hardly any roots. And, as the pseudobulbs ARE HOLLOW, there was not much substance to sustain the plant, so it died.

As to your shot of the roots, well, first class. I especially like the branched root system. Many people do not know that if a root end gets damaged for some reason or other, then the root sends out side roots. The total length of the side roots greatly exceeds the length of the main root..........can't be all that bad.

Leaf necrotic areas. I have had this appear now and again on some of my Catts. No idea what the hell causes it, but I would guess that it comes with the plant. Often seems to disappear for some unknown reason.

From: dennis READ
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] leaf
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2005 17:35

One of two reasons,- both to do with water-
Water on the leaf allowed to get too cold or
Water on the leaf and allowed to sit in the sun.
You to decide.
Regards

From: jns tropic
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: An AOS award
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 04:10

Friday I posted two seedling C. skinneri plants,
flowering for the first time, to my web sit (tropical
garden pics) The next day I took one to the local AOS
judging. The best plant was past prime. The plant
sent to the AOS earned an AM. It was a big day for
me. In 60 years of growing orchids I have only sent
two plants for judging and both times they were
awarded AM's. The other was a Milt. moreliana
'Lizzie'.

From: Roger Grier
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Jns's Awarded Cattleya.
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 09:25

Congratulations on getting an award for your Cattleya Skinneri. It sure looks to be a fine strong plant.

I was very pleased indeed to see that it is grown in a basket, and why you may ask! Because there are still 'Judges' out there, or 'People who judge' who turn their noses up at dirty pots. If the pot is a plastic one, then yes give it a wipe over to look respectable, but if it is a clay pot with moss or some similar growth on it then that is natural to how it was grown.

From: Andy Mckeown
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] RE: leaf
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 11:10

Thanks Geoff and Dennis for your suggestions about these necrotic areas. It is not likely to be caused by water as I very rarely get water on the leaves. One of the things about hydroponic growing is the humidity stays fairly high so not much need to spray overhead. I also find that spraying too much has led to sooty mould developing in the past I shall give the physan a go.

As for the problem of remembering to do it - on the first of each month I record what is in flower. Now I just need to link that with a spray plan!

From: Andy Mckeown
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] An AOS award
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 11:10

From: Andy Mckeown
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] photos
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 11:40

The Dialaelia is rather nice. I bought it in Sept 2003 and it was in flower in April and May 2004 and again now so I guess that is going to be the pattern in my regime. I bought it from http://www.nardottoecapello.it/ where I get most of my plants. Their service is quick and efficient. The quality is consistently excellent - better than any I have bought here in the UK and it is cheaper to buy a batch of plants from them. They charge about £20 postage for 10 plants but Uk growers charge £8 - £15(!) to send one! The only down side is that they don't accept credit cards so you need to add on the cost of a money transfer.

From: "Schoonjans, Peter-Dieter \(IT\)"
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Seed germination times
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2005 18:40

Two weeks ago, I have made a first attempt in sowing orchid seed. Does
anyone have experience with the germination time, i.e. how quickly
should I see if the seed was bad/oversterelised, and will not germinate?
They are mainly Dendrobium seeds. The medium is a simple sugar (20gr) /
fertilizer (4gr 15-30-15 Miracle Gro) / agar mix (10gr), with 5.4pH, as
my girlfriend didn't allow me to use the P6668.

From: hedrick kwan
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Seed germination times
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 00:10

Hi peter
my experience with germination is if the seeds are
bad, they would turn brown (dark hazel) over a period
of 1 week to 1 month and can be species dependent. The
media you are using is alright but I prefer to use a
balance media to start with some tomato juice to add
peptides and micronutrient.
Let the media sit in high light, 21 degree C and high
humidity between 80percent.
Hope this helps

From: Sharon Williams
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: where are the photos?
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 01:20

Hi Tricia: I get the digest version of the Orchid talk and would like to know where one can see the photos that are talked about. Or do I have to not get the digest version of things?
Thanks
Sharon

From: Geoffrey Hands
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Seed germination times
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 08:35

As little as 10days with some Disa seeds , and as long as 7 years for some
difficult hybrid paphs .

The answer is keep the flask safe an in good conditions, and only throw it
away if it gets infected. Otherwise keep it , and keep hoping !.

From: Tricia Garner
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Re: where are the photos?
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 10:40

I quote the message dated 20 March I sent as webmaster to the digest
subscribers - I admit I have been rather late with updating the website and
archives, due to illness. It is compounded by the fact that there have been
more photos than usual... The only way to get the photos quickly is to take
the 'individual message' version :-)

I am finding more and more digests are being returned undelivered when
there are pictures attached, so from now on there will be no attachments on
the digests. Sorry, but it's the only sensible course of action.

Any photos will be collected together and put on the website at the end of
each month. Please allow a few days into the month before looking for the
previous month's photos...

If you would like to see any of the photos sooner than that, please drop me
an email and I can send you a copy. Where there are several pictures, each
would be with a separate message.

From: Thomas Hillson
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Seed germination times
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 14:25

For most tropical species they should turn green in a week or two and
begin to enlarge after that. Most will produce small plant with roots
that can be transplanted in 3 to 6 months.

Many Temperate species prefer to be put in the dark, including
Paphiopedilums until they start to germinate. Then they are moved
into the light, this can take 6 months to a year.

Have fun germinating your orchids, I germinated my first 35 years
ago. It was fascinating to watch.

At 6:42 PM +0100 4/11/05, Schoonjans, Peter-Dieter (IT) wrote:
>Hello,
>
>Two weeks ago, I have made a first attempt in sowing orchid seed.
>Does anyone have experience with the germination time, i.e. how
>quickly should I see if the seed was bad/oversterelised, and will
>not germinate? They are mainly Dendrobium seeds. The medium is a
>simple sugar (20gr) / fertilizer (4gr 15-30-15 Miracle Gro) / agar
>mix (10gr), with 5.4pH, as my girlfriend didn't allow me to use the
>P6668.
>
>Many thanks,
>
>Peter.

From: "Schoonjans, Peter-Dieter \(IT\)"
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] RE: Seed germination times
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 15:10

Unfortunately I did have to throw away 5 dishes last night. I have not
used flasks to minimise the risk of contamination. We mixed the agar,
autoclaved it and then poored them in sterile petri dishes.
Unfortunately they have been sitting in the fridge for a bit too long
which is where I suspect the contamination comes from (condensation).
After sowing the seeds I put parafilm-m around the edges so the dish is
airtight.

From: "Schoonjans, Peter-Dieter \(IT\)"
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Re: Seed germination times
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 15:20

I haven't read about any humidity requirement for germination and a few
references were unclear on the lighting levels, some say that it doesn't
matter, or germination could happen in darkness. As the dishes are
(totally) sealed, I would assume that the humidity level is near 100% at
room temperature. How can you measure the humidity, and how do you control
it?

In my next sowing attempt I will use a better medium, i.e. get the agar and
P6668 mixed in a lab by someone who is qualified to deal with that stuff.

Hi peter my experience with germination is if the seeds are bad, they would
turn brown (dark hazel) over a period of 1 week to 1 month and can be
species dependent. The media you are using is alright but I prefer to use a
balance media to start with some tomato juice to add peptides and
micronutrient. Let the media sit in high light, 21 degree C and high
humidity between 80percent. Hope this helps

From: Geoffrey Hands
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: a rather different sort of orchid
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 20:50

My first flowering , although it was in flower when I bought it 2 years go -
when Ron and myself did our Dutch nursery tour.

Has made a nice panful and is now growing over the edges and underneath - it
is hanging up - and will get even better I am sure.

From: aeranthes
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Dend abberans
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2005 09:20

Thank you so much Chong-Yee. The plant arrived safely this morning. What a little darling!! I have never seen this orchid before and didn't even know of its existence and it is so sweet and still with some flowers! What a very good start to my day. Thank you for the instructions for looking after it. I'll carry them out to the letter as this one just has to do well for me. I'd be heartbroken if anything goes amiss! Jean

From: Jon Loose
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] a rather different sort of orchid
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2005 10:40

It looks very pretty, like a Chrysanthemum at this scale. Convergent
evolution always fascinates me - and the tendency for plants to evolve
"super flowers" built up to look like a flower but made of lots of
individual ones. The Asteraceae (Compositae including Chrysanthemum) and
Apiaceae (Umbelliferae) are entirely like this (I believe) but many other
families have examples. I must confess to being quite fascinated by
Bulbophyllum/Cirrhopetalum as a genus - they seem to be more specialized
than many groups of orchids but maybe it is just to the human eye and the
others are too.

From: L de Leon
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: D Kingianum in Bloom
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2005 11:30

Sometime back I reported buying a D Kingianum in spike and someone asked me
how we managed to do this in April downunder just at the end of summer.

Guess what. Another has 3 spikes with one spike in bloom. I still do not
know what I did to deserve this, although the first plant has not progressed
into bloom. The spike just keeps growing very slowly. I have a few of these
and none of the others are showing any inclination to flower.

From: hedrick kwan
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Re: Seed germination times
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2005 11:40

Hi Peter
My experience comes from doing my project in a
commerical tissue culture facility at univserity. We
keep them all the time in high light but yes, I have
heard germination does occur regardless of light
because its the imbition from the media to the seed.
You measure the humdity using a maximum and minimum
thermometer and from memory there is a humdity meter
as well...can't exactly remember. You can only control
humidity in a climate control enviroment chamber.
I found that the easiest and cheapest method is to buy
a premix from an established company that sells media.
hope this helps.

From: Geoffrey Hands
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Re: Seed germination times
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2005 20:30

Measuring humidity ; this will be in the ambient environment - not in the
flask(or equivalent)if the latter is hermetically sealed. But not all flasks
are sealed - n the contrry.
Measured by using wet and dry bulb thermometers ( very accurate this -
depending on the accuracy of calibration and reading of course , or by a
more modern electronic system ( quite expensive) or a hair hygrometer (cheap
, but not very accurate ad needs recalibration very frequently).

The point to bear in mind is that if the seedlings are to stay in flask for
a year - often necessary or desirable with orchids - it is usual to have not
a hermetically sealed flask , but one with a breathing tube , plugged with a
wisp of cotton wool which has been wet with an appropriate fungicide (?) I
cannot quite bring to mind what it is that most people use , an iodide
perhaps . If this is done then ambient humidity is of course communicated
into the flask and measuring it - and controlling it - becomes important.
For orchids it is reckoned that a slightly lower humidity than that wanted
by adult plants is right.
Geoff

From: Geoffrey Hands
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Dend abberans
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2005 20:40

Some years ago when I attended most of the Midland orchid shows, ( which
perhaps I should explain for the benefit of southerners , are most
frequently composed of displays put on by half a dozen different orchid
societies, plus a couple of trade stands , unlike e.g. Bournemouth Show
where there are individual competitive classes for members only , plus
tradestands - but no groups from other Societies ) -displays for Central
Orchid Society ( Wolverhampton) were put on by to very good growers , almost
entirely with their own plants ( it's often that way with the smaller
Societies).

One of those two frequently showed panfuls of D.aberrans- and I mean 6inch
and larger pans, completely covered with flowers.

( and the other of the two did the same with the even more difficult
D.cuthbertsonii).

This is merely intended as encouragement in the hope that some of our group
will go on to show us panfuls of this delightful species .It can be done.

From: Sharon Williams
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: zygo recheck
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 00:50

Hello to Rocky, Max, Andy, Ron, Jean and others who contributed to the discussion of zygopetalum culture back in January. It has now been 3 months and I was wanting to check in with those who were moving their zygos to cooler temps to try to get them to fair better. So what is the consensus?
I was shocked when I last paid a visit to our local orchid greenhouse and they said that they grew their zygos in a warm greenhouse, and all of them bloom! I did have mine in a cooler location and it just seemed to sit there. Then I moved it to a slightly warmer location (intermed temps with the Catts. and now there are 5 new growths growing. Only problem is that I just noticed the other day that there are small black spots on the leaves of the oldest growth. These spots are depressed from the surface. Could this be due to water spots and then sunshine, or am I about to start the 'slow death' syndrome again?
Sharon

From: Max Redman
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re seed germination
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 06:20

Peter,
I am quite unsure what you mean when you talk about P6668. In one of your
earlier letters you said that you made up your own brew as your girlfriend
would not let you use P6669.
Then you talk about getting someone in a Lab to make it up for you? What is
the problem?
I have been using it for a number of years and its only a case of mixing the
correct amount of agar and about 60gms per litre of banana (If you use it)
then sterilizing the mix in either a pressure cooker or sterilizer unit.
Rather than bore everyone with a lot of details ,if you want to contact me
off list please do so. I do a lot of hybridizing and have done so for a
number of years. I have used a number of different formulas for the medium
and found P6668 very good.
Max.

From: Max Redman
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] D Kingianum in Bloom
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 06:25

Luis
Are you sure that you have straight kingianum . I have a feeling that you
may have a hybrid as they will bloom much earlier than true kingianum. Where
abouts are you?
Max

From: aeranthes
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Dend kingianum
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 08:00

Luis, I had a Dend.kingianum and it was a difficult plant to flower. It was a rare happening and when it did I only had one or two flowers so I don't think they are easy plants. I have succeeded with other Dends and found by accident - or trial and error- that they do like lots of winter sun. You could try that as long as your sun isn't so hot in the winter that it would scorch the plant. Good luck anyway - Jean

From: Ron Bower
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] zygo recheck
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 11:30

Hello Sharon,
I grow my Zygo in the middle of my orchid house for the whole year. The middle in my house is around the middle sixties Fahrenheit during the day and a few degrees lower at night. The plant that flowered December has several new growths ranging from just emerging to 7 inches and the older growth appears stronger and more luxurious and there are no black spots.I water weekly and fertilise as for the Phals. That works for me, I hope you find it helpful. Ronbow.

From: Roger Grier
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Zygopetalums.
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 15:15

I have two in the warmer house, guess it's the same conditions as yours, as they have Cattleyas etc as neighbours. Before I put them there I gave them a dammed good clean up. Cut away all blackened leaves, even paying extra special attention to the leaf sheaths/husks. I do this with most orchids as it does give the new roots/eyes a good unimpeded start. So far these two are showing good new growths. I will keep you informed of their progress.

I have I think three or four Zygos in the cooler house, and the information to date regarding those is similar to the ones in the warmer house, yet obviously they are not so far forward.

I am beginning to think that it does not matter that much how they are grown, but where they are, and at what temperature, and humidity when they are producing buds,

From: "Schoonjans, Peter-Dieter \(IT\)"
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Re: Seed germination times
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 18:45

Here is the list of the seeds I have sown:
Dendrobium unicum
Dendrobium crumenatum
Dendrobium scabrilingue
Dendrobium lindleyi
Dendrobium primulinum (yellow)
Dendrobium gratiossimum
Dendrobium hercoglossum
Dendrobium pulchellum
Arundina graminifolia
Cymbidium ensifolium
Pleion maculata
Vanda teres

The Cymbidium seeds in particular were the hardest to deal with, as even
after soaking them in a saturated sugar solution for about 24 hours they
didn't sink (as suggested in 'Asymbiotic Technique of Orchid Seed
Germination'). The Dendrobium seeds on the other hand were much easier
to deal with. I'll see what will happen. The dishes don't take up any
space so keeping them for months isn't the problem. While I patiently
wait, I have some seedlings to take care of, which I deflasked from two
flasks almost a month ago.

From: aeranthes
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: zygos
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 19:30

Sharon, I moved mine too to a cooler location and they have definitely improved. I was losing leaves before but haven't lost any since moving them and have two new growths on one plant and one new growth on the other. As their general condition has improved I'm going to carry on keeping them as cool as I can during the summer and just see what happens. I'm pleased with them so far.
Rocky and Ronbow are you able to keep them at around 60 even during the summer? I can't get my greenhouse as low as that in mid summer even with a fan going constantly, windows, roof and door open and heavy shading up, and daily misting and spraying water on the floor.
Geoff - thanks for the encouragement. One day I hope to send a photograph of a magnificent Dend. aberrans (fingers crossed). - Jean

From: dennis READ
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Shows
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 19:55

Your note on shows is most apposite. My previous O.S. was the North Hants O. S. and my present is the Devon O.S. but last week end I went to the West Cornwall O.S.. Both the NHOS and the D.O.S. have shows with displays by other orchid societies as well as professional dealers and I always enjoyed them. Last weekend at the W. C. O. S. There were no traders as it is too far and not enough business.There were stands by West Cornwall, Devon and Writhlington School Orchid societies and open class exhibits.
There must have been about 200 plants on show and all could easily be seen - not obscured by ferns and moss and toofar away to be seen. To me that was a bonus, but in addition, as there were no traders, people were selling their own spare plants at amateur prices.
For a small show,in the Duchy College in Cambourne, about 350 people came through the door at £1.50. Also about £800 of plants were sold, prices from £2.00 to £10 with 10% to the W. C. O. S.
I had a great day and I reccomend it to all.
I mainlt enjoyed being able to see plants very easily.
Regards

From: Roger Grier
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Italian plants.
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 20:25

I have just had a very long look at the Italian web-site that you gave us, and I am very impressed indeed. Have already picked out eight plants, and I will E-mail them to ask a couple of questions.

From: L de Leon
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: Dend kingianum
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 21:05

I didn‹t want to tell anyone but this is the first bloom I made! Before
this, they were all purchased. I have the perfect spot for what you just
described.

Luis, I had a Dend.kingianum and it was a difficult plant to flower. It was
a rare happening and when it did I only had one or two flowers so I don't
think they are easy plants. I have succeeded with other Dends and found by
accident - or trial and error- that they do like lots of winter sun. You
could try that as long as your sun isn't so hot in the winter that it would
scorch the plant. Good luck anyway - Jean

From: L de Leon
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Re: [OrchidTalk] Re: D Kingianum in Bloom
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 21:05

Could be. I checked with the orchid shop yesterday and similar plants were
in bloom. I am in Melbourne and this is native to Aust so maybe it is in the
water.

Max Redman wrote:
Luis
Are you sure that you have straight kingianum . I have a feeling that you
may have a hybrid as they will bloom much earlier than true kingianum.

From: Dr Chong-Yee Khoo
To: Orchid Talk List
Subject: Bournemouth Orchid Society at Dijon
Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2005 22:25

Sorry we didn't get to meet up, but yes there were lots and lots of people at the show, especially over the weekend. A scrum is a good word to describe it!

Our society stand was exceedingly popular (and very crowded); as you know, it was set up in such a way that people could actually get close up to the plants and flowers. This wasn't the case for many of the other displays, and although there was some touching and feeling of the plants, overall I think it was a positive decision to set up the display this way.

Just for the record, here are the awards the Society and its members received... 2 trophies, 1 gold medal, 1 silver medal, 5 bronze medals, 5 yellow ribbons (First in Class), 11 red ribbons (Second in Class) and 2 green ribbons (Third in Class):

Trophy (Best specimen all classes Cypripedioideae) to Cypripedium formosanum (Grower: Allan Burdis)
Trophy (Best of Orchids in Art - Photograph) to Bulbophyllum frostii (Photo, Exhibitor: Chong-Yee Khoo)
Gold Medal to Bulbophyllum frostii (Photo, Exhibitor: Chong-Yee Khoo)
Silver Medal to Epidendrum capricornu (Grower: Colin Carter)
Bronze Medal to Dendrobium sanderae var major (Grower: Chong-Yee Khoo)
Bronze Medal to Eulophia guineensis (Grower: Mike Powell)
Bronze Medal to Gastrorchis pulchra 'Fredensborg' (Grower: Allan Burdis)
Bronze Medal to Dendrobium goldschmidtianum (Photo, Exhibitor: Chong-Yee Khoo)
Bronze Medal to www.british-orchid-council.info (Website, Webmaster: Graham Smith)
Yellow ribbon (1st) to Cypripedium formosanum (Grower: Allan Burdis)
Yellow ribbon (1st) to Eulophia guineensis (Grower: Mike Powell)
Yellow ribbon (1st) to Masdevallia ignea (Grower: Allan Burdis)
Yellow ribbon (1st) to Zygoneria Adelaide Parklands (Grower: Geoff Hands)
Yellow ribbon (1st) to Cymbidium insigne (Grower: Nina Gregson)
Red ribbon (2nd) to Eulophia Michael Tibbs (Grower: Mike Powell)
Red ribbon (2nd) to Paphiopedilum appletonianum (Grower: Colin Carter)
Red ribbon (2nd) to Pelexia weberbaueri x Stenosarcos Vanguard (Grower: Mike Powell)
Red ribbon (2nd) to Masdevallia concinna (Grower: Allan Burdis)
Red ribbon (2nd) to Gastrorchis pulchra 'Fredensborg' (Grower: Allan Burdis)
Red ribbon (2nd) to Gastrorchis pulchra 'Fredensborg' (Grower: Allan Burdis)
Red ribbon (2nd) to Lemboglossum uroskinneri 'Lilac Queen' (Grower: Derek Copley)
Red ribbon (2nd) to Paphiopedilum Envy Green (Grower: Colin Carter)
Red ribbon (2nd) to Paphiopedilum victoria-mariae (Grower: Geoff Hands)
Red ribbon (2nd) to Coelogyne mooreana 'Brockhurst' (Grower: Chong-Yee Khoo)
Red ribbon (2nd) to Display (Bournemouth Orchid Society)
Green ribbon (3rd) to Cymbidium insigne (Grower: Nina Gregson)
Green ribbon (3rd) to Display (Bournemouth Orchid Society)

We are very lucky to have a friendly and enthusiastic membership, and some good growers (who are not shy to share their knowledge with the rest of us!). As you can see from the awards list, we grow a wide range of orchids, species and hybrids, and the membership includes some specialist growers (e.g., terrestrials, Paphs, Dendrobiums, Pleurothallids, etc).

If anyone is interested in joining this society, please do come along to our meetings (usually the last Friday of the month, at the Bournemouth Natural History Society, Christchurch Road, Bournemouth). It's not far; we make the journey from Winchester every month, and enjoy ourselves tremendously at the meetings.

If you missed the WOC, come along to our October meeting, when I'll be doing a presentation on the WOC (along with others who were there). We'll also be setting up an exhibit for the Newbury International Orchid Show, and our Autumn show this year will be held on 24th September.

MONTH	DATE	DATE	DATE	DATE	MONTH	DATE	DATE	DATE	DATE
January	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-31	February	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-28
March	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-31	April	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-30
May	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-31	June	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-30
July	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-31	August	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-31
September	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-30	October	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-31
November	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-30	December	1-7	8-14	15-21	22-31

2005 Archived Messages

April 8-14